We stayed at the Hotel Parnass, a very pleasant
pension-hotel (hotel+restaurant) in the center of town next to the river.
Here's the view from the balcony of our room.
More Matterhorn views from our hotel room: dawn,
dawn
closeup, late morning,
sunset,
wearing
a hat (supposedly a sign of more good weather to come).
Here's the dining room where we ate breakfast
and dinner--we had our own table, and they served an excellent five-course
meal every night.
We made friends with a German girl named Rike
who was also staying in our hotel. Here we are walking
back to the hotel after a day of skiing.
Every morning at 7:45 a flock of sheep came
out of an old barn across the street from the hotel and went for a walk
down the street.
You also see St. Bernards
everywhere:
they won't rescue you or offer you a drink of brandy, but you can pay to
have
your picture taken with one.
There are three main ski areas above Zermatt: Sunnegga-Rothorn, Gornergrat, and Klein Matterhorn. Here is the official trail map (287K) showing all the areas and trails, which we carried with us everywhere to find our way around the mountains. (It doesn't all fit on one screen--slide to the right to see the Matterhorn.) You get to the ski areas by taking trains or gondolas up the sides of the valley. There's an "alpen metro" (funicular) train that goes through a tunnel up to Sunnegga, a cog railway train that goes to up Gornergrat, and gondolas that go up to Klein Matterhorn, plus lots of other gondolas, chair-lifts, and t-bars on the higher slopes. The highest trails (on Klein Matterhorn) are at around 12,500 feet, and there are ski trails that go all the way back down to the village from all the ski areas.
Here we are on the ski slopes above Sunnegga.
Here's the view of Zermatt from the trail to
the village below Sunnegga.
Here we are getting ready to ski at Trockener Steg
below Klein Matterhorn.
This is the view from Trockener Steg looking
back down the valley toward Zermatt.
The picnic area at Trockener Steg. (That's
the Matterhorn in the background--it looks different when you get up close
to it.)
Here's the view up the mountain toward Klein
Matterhorn from Trockener Steg. Klein Matterhorn means "little
Matterhorn": it's right next to the "big" Matterhorn but about 2000
feet shorter. It's the craggy peak at the left in this picture.
The gondola goes into a tunnel bored right through the mountain at the
very top, and you ski down the other side. In the picture, you can
just barely see the hole at the top of the mountain (on the right edge
of the sharp peak) and the gondola cables leading up to it. Here's
a shot of the gondola ascending to Klein Matterhorn--almost
straight up!
Here's the view from the top of Klein Matterhorn:
the Italian alps are in the distance at the left and the Matterhorn is
at the far right. (This is a big picture: you may need to use
the sliders to see all of it.) You can also ski down into the Italian
resort of Cervinia from here. The Testa Grigia station at the top
of the Cervinia lifts is at left-center in the picture.
Another view from Klein Matterhorn, a little
more to the right, looking back toward Trockener Steg and Zermatt.
One more view from Klein Matterhorn, a little
further to the right, toward Breithorn and Gornergletscher. (The
Gornergrat Hotel is barely visible in the distance at far-left-center in
the picture, at the top of a rocky slope above the glacier. Behind
it are the ski areas at Sunnegga.)
Here we are on the trail from Klein Matterhorn
back down to Trockener Steg. This was our favorite place to
ski. (That's Jane at the left. The kids are way ahead as usual.)
Becca and Amy also spent two days snowboarding
instead of skiing.
Here's Becca snowboarding near the Matterhorn.
(Not quite as near as it looks: the peak is still almost a mile above
her head!)
There are lots of quaint restaurants and even a few hotels on the mountainsides:
Cottages and restaurants on the slopes at Findeln,
below Sunnegga, where we had lunch on our first day.
The Gornergrat Hotel at the top of the train
line.
The restaurant at Riffelberg below Gornergrat--a
great place to bask in the sun and have a drink.
The hotel at Riffelberg looks like it's on
the edge of the world.
Some of the gondolas are small cabs, others
are huge cars that hold over 100 people.
Here's the view from inside--they pack you in like
cattle!
We saw lots of mountain goats on the hillsides while riding the gondolas:
A bunch of goats on a rocky ledge, seen from
the Blauherd gondola. (How many can you count?)
A goat grazing in the snow. (The dots at top-center
are skiers on a distant slope.)
We also went sledding on the sled trail on Gornergrat: you can
rent sleds at the Riffelberg train stop and sled back down to there from
Rotenboden. It's a narrow winding trail like a bobsled run.
The view from the Gornergrat train.
Becca and Amy heading down the sled trail.
A fast turn at the end of the run.
On the way home, we saw lots of castles on hilltops and vineyards on hillsides.